EXECUTIVE SUMMARY

Outworkers in the Garment Industry
CONTENTS

EXECUTIVE SUMMARY

The Textile, Clothing and Footwear Industries in Australia have undergone major restructuring over the last decade as a result of reductions in tariffs and bounties, forced by government in an effort to make the industry more internationally competitive. Manufacturing in routine, high-volume clothing areas has, for the most part, moved off-shore. Manufacturing in high fashion, seasonal areas has remained in Australia. However, in an effort to remain competitive in the face of increased imports, manufacturing has moved from a factory-based workforce to outworkers. Outworking is now so prevalent that it is not just a characteristic of the industry, the entire industry is structured around it.

With the addition of a large outworker labour force and their associated intermediaries, the chain of garment production has lengthened. In some instances, as many as seven parties many be involved (distributor, retailer, manufacturer, cutting contractor, sewing contractor, subcontractor, outworker). Because the chain of garment production is so long, it has become easy for responsibility to be passed off from one element to another along the chain.

Estimates provided indicate that there is somewhere between 50,000 and 330,000 people involved in outworking in the garment industry on a full and part-time basis. However, regardless of the absolute number of people involved in home-based garment manufacture in Australia, it is highly likely that the number of outworkers has increased considerably over the last decade. More importantly, the Committee believes that there are sufficient people involved in the industry for concern about them to be warranted.

Most outworkers are migrant women, aged between 25 - 35, who have young children at home. Some are assisted by their husbands, either in a full-time or part-time capacity. Most have very poor English language skills and are thus unable to find work elsewhere. Elderly people and children assist in many outworker families with ancillary tasks.

Problems experienced by outworkers include: low piece rates which translate to low hourly rates; impossible deadlines for completion of work; late payment, underpayment, non-payment for completed work, rejection of work and unreimbursed expenses; physical and verbal harassment from intermediaries (blackmail, threats, coercion and bribes); substandard working environments; and worries associated with combining work with family responsibilities. These stresses are compounded by the lack of English language skills and inadequate training.

Through the availability of the various clothing trades awards, mechanisms exist for outworkers to be paid wages equivalent to factory employees and some outworkers are paid award wages. If this is done, it can provide a satisfactory employment option for women who for family or cultural reasons would prefer to work at home. However, the structural complexities of the garment manufacturing chain, and resultant ease with which various parties can shed responsibility, mitigates against full award compliance and it appears that the majority of outworkers are not paid award wages. Some outworkers are seriously exploited.

The Committee notes that the Workplace Relations and Other Legislation Amendment Act 1996 will change the circumstances under which outworkers may be employed by providing for individual Workplace Agreements with scrutiny of such agreements available through the Employment Advocate. It is the Committee's view, however, that in accordance with the nature of outwork and past experience in the industry, it is probable that most outworkers will not be required to sign any contract and will continue to be employed in the same manner as they have been in the past.

In addition, powers of inspection (right of entry provisions) previously delegated to the Union, will be curtailed by the new legislation. The Committee is concerned that these changes have the potential to adversely affect the conditions under which outworkers are employed. The Committee concludes that for both these reasons alone, outworkers need extra employment protections as outlined in later conclusions and recommendations.

However, Government Committee Members believe that the strengthening of penalties for breaches of awards and the proactive role to be played by both the Office of the Employment Advocate and the Awards Management Section of the Department of Industrial Relations concerning outworkers, under the new Workplace Relations Act 1996, will improve outworker protections.

The Committee received compelling evidence that the employment status of outworkers is confused. While some legislation and certain awards make it clear that some outworkers are employees, the lack of clear national legislation and, more importantly, the actual conditions of employment experienced by outworkers give rise to the belief among many people that outworkers are contractors rather than employees. The Committee believes that, because of the nature of the work undertaken and the circumstances of their employment, most outworkers in the garment industry should be considered to be employees. Accordingly, the Committee recommends that the Government examine ways to clarify the employment status of outworkers in the garment industry (Paragraph 2.69).

The Committee notes that occupational health and safety of outworkers is a neglected issue. Although the magnitude of occupational and secondary stress induced health problems is not known, the Committee is concerned that because outworkers are treated as contractors rather than as employees, the ultimate cost of accidents and illness among them may be being borne by the public sector. The Committee endorses the recommendations made by Worksafe Australia (Paragraph 3.84):

Evidence shows that children are involved in outworking and the Committee concludes that there is sufficient evidence to suggest that some children are involved to an unreasonable extent. The Committee believes that the situation endured by exploited children will only be ameliorated through an improvement in the employment conditions experienced by their parents. Having regard to Australia's international and national obligations to protect children from exploitation, the Committee suggests that Government consideration of this matter is warranted (Paragraph 3.85).

The Committee concludes that enforcement by government agencies of compliance with award wages and conditions has declined considerably in recent years, being more reactive than proactive, and that this in itself has contributed to an increase in the level of non-compliance. However, the Committee acknowledges that the level of non-compliance in TCF industries is exacerbated by an unwillingness on the part of outworkers to report non-compliance and to have government agencies involved in the circumstances of their employment.

The issues of taxation obligations and eligibility for welfare benefits are of concern to some outworkers, particularly those who may have been coerced into infringements. As evidenced by the introduction of the Reportable Payments System and the Social Security amnesty for outworkers, these issues are clearly also of concern to the relevant government instrumentalities.

The Committee strongly believes that the Australian Taxation Office could take greater advantage of the Reportable Payments System to fully investigate taxation avoidance in TCF industries. The Committee notes that an important additional benefit of the Reportable Payments System is that it will assist in identifying all parties involved in the garment manufacturing chain, particularly those at the level of intermediary. In addition, the Committee notes that information gained from the Reportable Payments System is able to be used by the Department of Social Security to investigate welfare benefits fraud.

The Committee concludes that the Social Security amnesty for outworkers has been of limited success because of the difficulties associated with conveying information to outworkers and with their reluctance to become involved with government agencies. The Committee believes that the amnesty had merit. The Committee recommends that the Government consider reinstating an amnesty for outworkers for a period to allow community groups sufficient time to communicate with outworkers and to persuade them of its benefits. The Committee further recommends that funding from the TCF 2000 Development Package be made available for community groups to inform outworkers of the amnesty (Paragraph 4.53).

The Committee notes that despite a low participation rate, the Labour Adjustment Program has been of benefit to a number of people in TCF industries who would otherwise have continued to be employed as outworkers in undesirable circumstances. The Committee believes that more outworkers would benefit if the cut-off date for prior employment was extended from July 1994 to some appropriate date in the future. The Committee therefore recommends that the government consider extending the cut-off date for prior employment of the Labour Adjustment Program to a date in the future to be determined in consultation with the Union (Paragraph 4.54).

The Committee notes that Australia has not become a signatory to the ILO Convention and Recommendation on Home Work, but that the Government is currently undertaking consultations with the states, the Australian Chamber of Commerce and Industry and the ACTU with a view to presenting a report to Parliament on this matter by the end of June 1997. The Committee will review the Government's position in relation to the ILO Convention on Home Work in 12 months time (Paragraph 4.55).

The Committee notes the cancellation of the grant by the current Government to the Textiles Clothing and Footwear Union of Australia for outworker related activities. The Committee believes that the grant made by the previous Government to the Union for outworkers activities had already resulted in a number of beneficial outcomes. The Committee recommends to the Government that in evaluating proposals for expenditure from the TCF 2000 Development Package, consideration be given to the need for outworker projects similar to those carried out recently by the Union (Paragraph 5.24).

The Committee endorses the approach taken by the Union in promoting and establishing Deeds of Cooperation between the Union and garment retailers, manufacturing companies and government purchasers of clothing. The Committee recommends to all government agencies involved in clothing procurement that they consider whether outworkers are used in the manufacture of that clothing and, if so, whether they are able to enter into such Deeds of Cooperation (Paragraph 5.25).

The Committee believes that the draft voluntary industry 'Homeworkers Code of Practice' originally promoted by the Council of Textile and Fashion Industries of Australia could be an important step in changing the circumstances under which outworkers are employed. The Committee recommends that an industry 'Homeworkers Code of Practice' should be adopted by all participants in the garment retailing and manufacturing process. The Committee regrets that further progress has not been made towards establishing a voluntary Code and undertakes to review progress towards voluntary regulation in a further 12 months (Paragraph 6.50).

In attempting to resolve the problems faced by outworkers, quite a number of recommendations were made to the Committee by various government, industry and community groups. It is clear from the number of suggestions that a combined and coordinated approach is needed. Of those recommendations made, the Committee endorses and recommends the following actions.

The Committee endorses the concept of labelling garments. The Committee recommends to the garment industry that it voluntarily adopt an agreed label declaring that the employment conditions under which the garment was made complied with legislative requirements (Paragraph 6.52).

Because the problem of outworker exploitation is multifaceted, the Committee sees merit in having a National Outwork Committee, coordinated at government level, which would include representatives from industry, unions, community groups, and government agencies. The Committee recommends that the government investigate the concept of a National Outwork Committee which would have responsibility, inter alia, for the initiation and allocation of funding for projects relating to outwork (Paragraph 6.53).

There is insufficient information about the number of outworkers involved in garment manufacture, and in other areas of home-based processing. The Committee recommends that the Australian Bureau of Statistics conduct a comprehensive survey of the number of home-based workers across all industries. The ABS should carry out this survey in conjunction with the ATO and information gained from the Reportable Payments System on the number of outworkers (Paragraph 6.54).

The English language skills of many outworkers are often completely inadequate. This reduces their ability to negotiate contracts and to understand the conditions under which they are employed. Notwithstanding existing programs, the Committee believes that there would be merit in all governments reviewing programs for English language education with a view to increasing access for outworkers. The Committee recommends that the Government review federally funded arrangements for English language education with a view to increasing accessibility for migrants involved in outwork (Paragraph 6.55).

A contributing factor in the shedding of responsibility along the garment manufacturing chain appears to be ignorance among participants as to their own rights and responsibilities, and those of other parties. There is a need for increased levels of industry education in areas of award compliance, industrial relations, taxation compliance, and management skills. The Committee recommends that the government review educational arrangements in TCF industries for industrial relations and small business management (Paragraph 6.56).

The Committee believes that because a multifaceted approach is needed to eliminate exploitation of outworkers in the garment industry, the Government should move quickly to allocate funding identified in the TCF 2000 Development Package specifically for projects relating to outworkers, including those recommendations given above (Paragraph 6.57).

The Committee undertakes to review in 12 months time outworking in garment industry, with particular reference to the recommendations contained in this report (Paragraph 6.58).